Greetings! I have made it to the other coast! Okay not really - I'm currently in Saint John, New Brunswick on the Bay of Fundy, which isn't the official coast, but it's close and tomorrow I will take a ferry to Digby, Nova Scotia, where I will eat some local scallops.
But before I get into that, I must first write about my time in Quebec (two and a half weeks in total spent in that province). I'm behind on my writing, but I think it's also more important to focus on living in the present and taking part in these new experiences, as opposed to being tied down to a laptop documenting everything as it happens. So I will try my best to recall all that happened whilst I was in the land of the French. Beware, it'll be a fairly long account.
My first few hours of being in Montreal were rather overwhelming. Just driving into the city alone was an extremely stressful task - much like when I was in Mexico, the drivers don't seem to adhere to general rules (such as signalling) as much. There was definitely a moment of "ughh I'm stuck in my car on this crazy 4-lane road surrounded by vehicles and there's no way to stop or just take a break." But nonetheless I figured it out eventually and made it to my friend Dalhi's house in Hochelaga - I've known
Dalhi Gonthier (from Galiano Island) since he was in grade 7 and I was in grade 9 - we took the school boat together every day in high school to Salt Spring. Now he's a jazz saxophonist living in Montreal! Somewhere into town, I missed the apparently giant signs that say turning right on a red light is forbidden on the island of Montreal, so I spent a good week and a half breaking the law in this fashion, until Dalhi found out and set me straight.
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Dalhi posing with his saxophone, Dennis the Cow, and Monty the Marmot,
in front of the legendary piece of electrical tape given to me by
Doug Koyama. |
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Island kids in Montreal!! |
My first show was the next day right downtown at an Anglophone restaurant, Burritoville. I had deliberately arrived in town a day early so as to get myself oriented with the French and also just the craziness of driving in the city. I had to pay $10 to park in a parkade (it was the closest option - still a few blocks away - and I have at least 5 instruments and merch to carry with me). I played the show with my good friend
Francesca Daoust, who I know from Victoria. The food was fantastic (vegetarian Mexican food) and it was so wonderful to hear Francesca play. I enjoyed playing my Quebecois-inspired folk song,
The Legend of La Chasse Galerie for my first French crowd. Two days later, just before Halloween, I played at Shaika Cafe in the neighbourhood of NDG, with my friend
Sarah Elizabeth. Sarah just recently arrived in Montreal herself, having traversed the country just before I did, on VIA Rail as part of their performance program (which I was just rejected from because my music is too eclectic)!! For Halloween, I didn't end up playing a show, but I did end up dressing up as Jim the Sexy Zombie Mechanic and going to a pretty wild party at a downtown loft with Francesca and her roommate Malorie (Tank Girl). If you've ever been to a Montreal loft party, I'm sure you can imagine what it was like.
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Francesca and Shelder perform at Burritoville in downtown Montreal |
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Playing ukulele at Shaika Cafe |
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Sarah and Tyler at Shaika Cafe |
Initially, I had planned to stay an extra week in Montreal for a show at a different loft on November 8, spending the week hitting up a few jams and just checking out the city. I ended up however scoring a few extra shows as well! On the Monday after Halloween, I played trumpet with my friend Suzanne's band,
Brassmob, at Quai de Brumes. I had attended one rehearsal the night before (which was partially in French so that was an extra fun challenge)! and then just did my best on stage to remember and figure out the tunes as we went. It's been nearly two months since I've performed with a band (something I've been doing fairly regularly since I was 19) so as much fun as it is to perform solo acoustic shows, there's something inherently important about playing with a big group of other great musicians. I also haven't had the chance to really rip it up on trumpet lately, which is how I often channel a lot of excess energy, so it was great to have the opportunity to do that. When I return to Montreal in the new year, I hope to play some more with these wonderful musicians!!
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Playing with Brassmob at Quai de Brumes!! (Photo credit - Tony Revoy) |
I stayed for a night at Suzanne's place in the Hasidic Jew neighbourhood and met a guy who was part of an Italian folk dance group. He asked me to come play some Tarantellas for their dance night at Concordia - I had never played a tarantella on accordion but I figured it couldn't be too hard so I agreed to come play for the dancers. Turns out tarantellas aren't that hard to play, but there ARE other types of Italian folk dances, which I did not think to learn. The night was actually mostly focused on the Pizzica dance and the Tammurriata. Since I had shown up, they danced the Tarantella for a little bit to my live music, but they needed to focus on the other dances (to recordings). So I ended up joining in and learning the dances! And now I have a whole new whack of Italian folk dances I need to learn how to play!
Throughout the week leading up to the loft show, I attended two evenings at the legendary Grumpy's bar. The first was the Tuesday night open mic, where I went with Francesca and my re-found friend Christina (who I met twice while traveling in Mexico and then again randomly in Montreal!) who plays with the duo,
Kyazma. We each played a few songs (along with some comedians and a guy in a raccoon suit who sang songs from Rocky Horror Picture Show). My Quebecois inspired tune was especially well-received by the slightly inebriated Tuesday night bar crowd. The next night, I decided to challenge myself and attend the Wednesday night jazz jam with Dalhi. That was a humbling experience, to say the least. I haven't actually been working on my jazz trumpeting very much lately, so I was pretty rough, but I took it as a learning experience, playing with these super hot Montreal jazz musicians. The more I play music, the more I learn just how much more there is to learn. It's a lifelong journey, even if you just focus on one instrument and one style, which is something I've always found hard to do!
In that regard, I decided not to attend the Grumpy's bluegrass jam on the Thursday night, seeing as I don't play a bluegrass instrument at all and don't really know anything about the style, except for the fact I like attending the occasional bluegrass brunch. My musical brain was feeling rather over-saturated, so I spent the night having poutine with my Mayne Island friends, Zoe and Adam, who were just about to embark on their Eastern Canada
Fish & Bird tour. Friday night is when I attended the Italian folk dance night, and then on Saturday (my last full day in the city), I ended up playing two shows. At noon, I played a set a wonderful French cafe, Cafe Depanneur, where they have music from 10am until 5pm every day. People just sign up to play hour-long sets throughout the day on the stage. Such a great venue - more places need to jump on board with this arrangement! That performance was a good reminder for me - even when people don't look like they are listening (they may be talking to friends or on their laptop or reading a magazine), a portion of them is still paying attention. I used to get frustrated when I would play shows like this and no one was actively watching, and this would affect my performing, but I have since learned that just because someone isn't completely engaged, it doesn't mean they don't like your music. The man who played after me
(MelloCello) was a cellist who played mostly rock/blues covers with his loop pedal. I thought he was an incredible musician and performer, and yet I looked around and most people were just as disengaged for his set as they were for mine, though, as they did for me, they would clap and cheer after each song, still showing their appreciation for the performer on stage.
My last Montreal show was at the legendary Fattal lofts. As far as I understand it, Fattal is a series of warehouse buildings which used to be an ammunition factory, and they have now been turned into lofts, mostly inhabited by travelers, punks, artists, musicians and train-hoppers - in fact, it's right next to the train tracks. I shared the show with Francesca again, who also did a burlesque performance with Malorie, and we were joined by Dot the magnificent drag queen. This show was most definitely the wildest and most exciting show of my tour thus far. In fact, I could barely play (due to excitement and bliss) as they stomped and clapped to La Chasse Galerie and my rendition of The Logdriver's Waltz.
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Francesca at Fattal |
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The lofts at Fattal |
I found it more difficult to leave Montreal than any other city so far, most likely due to the fact that I made some great new friends, had some great (and humbling) musical experiences, and got to know it fairly well in the two weeks I was there. I felt very appreciative of my friends Dalhi, Marie-Pier, Francesca, Malorie, Vimul, Caitlin, Suzanne and Kelly for allowing me to crash with them during my two-week stay. Much nicer than having to live out of my Echo on the side of the street! Speaking of Caitlin (another friend from high school), we went for breakfast near her house at
Cosmos, this tiny but legendary breakfast place on Sherbrooke Ouest. Nick (the Greek son of Tony, who founded the restaurant) ran everything - making the coffee to cooking the greasy pancakes and omelettes and French toast to serving customers in the most entertaining manner I've ever seen. "My friends! You're all my friends! Everyone will be served. Do not worry my friends!! Coffee is coming, more hot coffee is coming!" It reminded me somewhat of a Seinfeld episode (the Soup Nazi one in particular), except Nick was far friendlier.
Back on track - I headed to Quebec City for two days, where I stayed with Gabriel, Audree and Mariette, who were friends of my friend Alana (who she met on a National Youth Choir trip last year). Gabriel is studying classical singing at the Conservatoire in Quebec, and he invited me to a recital he was performing in that night. I spent the day wandering around, expecting to just do some reading and writing at some coffee shops. Instead, as I walked past a busker (and threw in some change), he inquired about the ukulele I was holding and we started talking. A cop came and reprimanded him for not having a busking license, so we went and got some coffee instead. His name was Alex and it turns out he had just recently also came from BC (he was working in the Yukon and then as a cherry picker in the Okanagan) and returned home to Quebec for the winter. As we were talking, a girl approached us because she heard we were speaking English. She was a traveler from Australia and didn't speak much French. I ended up spending the day with them (and the Alex's dog Minto), jamming a bit, walking around the old part of the city, and eating poutine at Ashton's. So instead of spending the day with my book and my journal, I randomly met some really neat new friends! Yeliz (the girl from Australia), had told me about a free swimming pool, so the next day I decided to check it out. I found it and was confused about the schedule, so I just went in. I got changed into my bathing suit, took a shower and walked into the pool, where an aquafit class was going on. In an air similar to a Mr. Bean episode, I planned to sort of slip in quietly and hope no one would notice me. But of course the faces of about thirty old French ladies turned and stared at me, while the instructor came over and told me, in French, that the class was reserved. I stumbled through my broken French, and she explained to come back at noon (the old ladies were still staring). I liked the concept of a free indoor swimming pool, but I did not return. Instead of getting some exercise, I had some classic French onion soup, before heading to La Malbaie.
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A French looking street in Quebec City |
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My new ukulele in front of the Notre Dame in Quebec |
Much to my surprise, when I got to Montreal, I had actually MADE money on my tour. I've been very diligent with keeping track of my expenses and my earnings (which have been solely through donations) and I had managed to stay ahead. So I decided to spend my tour earnings on a good Eddy Fin ukulele in Montreal, and also at a Bed and Breakfast in La Malbaie on the St. Lawrence River. That was my first time ever staying at a BnB, which was an extremely quaint and relaxing experience. Yves and Miguel (along with their dog, Pesto), ran the bed and breakfast. They were so accommodating - they knew they would be away when I arrived, so they told me where the spare key would be so I could let myself into the house. In the morning, they made the most gourmet breakfast I may have ever eaten. Two types of local cheeses, homemade baked beans, an extremely tasty omelette, bread made from a 200-year old mill down the road, apple jelly made from the apple tree outside, granola, yogurt and fruit, as well as coffee and a fruit smoothie. If anyone happens to be passing through the Charlevoix region, I highly recommend staying with Yves and Miguel. The BnB also happened to be the same price as the crummy motel I stayed at in Massey.
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Le Petit Felix in La Malbaie - highly recommended for any travelers
passing through this region!! |
After breakfast, I stopped at St. Fidele to stock up on cheese curds (avec squeak) before heading to the ferry at Saint Simeon. I considered this leg of the journey to be my "vacation leg" - I didn't have to go up north this way to get to Fredericton, but I chose to just for the adventure of it all. I spent my last night in Quebec in Temiscouata-sur-le-Lac at a motel, getting in my last dose of Les Simpsons.
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Neat art installation in Temiscouata-sur-le-Lac |
And so begins the French portion of my cross-Canada tour. I will most definitely be returning to Montreal before I return out west, and I would like to spend a longer portion of time there, to get even more involved with the music scene. I've had a wonderful introduction to the Maritimes these past few days, which I shall write about in a subsequent post! For now though, I must ready myself for bed, as I need to be up early for the ferry to Digby!
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First glimpse of winter - November 12 |
Onwards to Nova Scotia, my friends!
Shelder the Electric Clamfish